Saturday, June 15, 2013

The Joel M Hat Pattern

The Joel M Hat Pattern

My inspiration for this pattern was Joel Maddens hair color, he changes it every week or maybe every day. 
He is a coach on The Voice.
 

 My Version


 I usually make my medium hats with a beginning crown of 72 st's, but the pattern used for the hat, made it shrink, so I had to start over with a crown count of 84 st's, it was a perfect count as the stitch pattern is dividable by 14 st's.

Below is the 70 st count for the crown, it was too small for a medium adult.

Below is the 84 st count, big difference!



The Joel M Hat Pattern

Hook size: AU 4.00mm. US G/6
Yarn ply: AU 8 ply. US 4 ply medium approx 120 gm’s
Tension: 9 dc’s, 2 inches wide. 1 dc, half inch high
US terms used
Beginner +
Time approx 3 hours: Size medium adult

Stitches used:
Ch = chain
Sl st = slip st
Sc = single crochet
Hdc = half double crochet
Dc = double crochet
Fphdc = front post half double crochet
Bphdc = back post half double crochet
Dec = decrease
Inc = Increase = more than 1 stitch in the same stitch
Yo = yarn over hook

Special Instructions:

Pattern is a 14 stitch repeat. Make your crown (end count) in multiples of 14. Example, I am using 84 dc which was an easy target to get to using the basic dc crown; I increased in 1 more row.
 I am using this size as the pattern tends to shrink down one size, so I am calling this size a medium.
Very small adult size you will need 70 dc st’s in the crown. You can manipulate the stitch count by adding or subtracting a stitch anywhere in the last row of making your crown, you may need to add or subtract 2 or 4 st’s, but that’s okay.

dc dec, next 3 st’s = yo hook, insert hook into next st, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo pull through 2 loops only, yo hook, , insert hook into next st, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), ), yo pull through 2 loops only,  yo hook, insert hook into next st, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook), yo pull through 2 loops, yo pull through remaining 4 loops on hook

To begin make the basic dc crown found here.
To get 84 st’s complete row 7 below.

Row 7, Ch 3, work 1 dc in next 4 dc, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (84 dc)


Set Up Row for Pattern, (color changes will not be mentioned)

Row 1, Ch 3, work 1 dc in the next 3 st’s, work 1 sc in the next 6 st’s, *work 1 dc in the next 8 st’s, , work 1 sc in the next 6 st’s,* repeat from*to* to the last 4 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 4 st’s, , sl st to join in top of ch 3

Pattern:

Row 2, Ch 3, work 2 dc’s in same space as sl st (inc made), work 1 dc in next 3 st’s, dc dec, next 3 st’s (dec made), dc dec, next 3 st’s (dec made),  work 1 dc in next 3 st’s, work 3 dc’s in the next st (inc made),
(14 st, pattern just made)
*work 3 dc’s  in the next st (inc made), work 1 dc in next 3 st’s, dc dec, next 3 st’s (dec made), dc dec, next 3 st’s (dec made),  work 1 dc in next 3 st’s, work 3 dc’s  in the next st (inc made),* repeat from *to* to end of the round, sl st to join in top of ch 3

Row 3 and remaining rows of pattern, repeat pattern row 2 approx 6 or 7 times in total (or length desired i.e: slouch look)



It’s up to you if you want a straight hat edge or the wave hat edge. If you want the wave hat edge add more rows of the pattern for length desired

Straight Hat Edge

Row 1, work 1 sc in the next 4 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 7 st’s, work 1 sc in the next 3 st’s. *work 1 sc in the next 3 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 8 st’s, work 1 sc in the next 3 st’s* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the first st of the round

Special size instructions:
For a tighter hat edge replace the hdc with sc’s.
For a looser hat edge replace the hdc with dc’s.

Row 2, ch 2 (first hdc), work 1 hdc in each st to end of the round, sl st into ch 2 space to join

Row 3, ch 2,* work 1 bphdc in next st, work 1 fphdc in next st,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into ch 2 space to join

Row 4, repeat row 3 for length desired.

Finish off and tie in ends.




You may find this amusing, this is how I jotted down the pattern as I made the hat and pattern.

Chickie Magoo helped test this pattern and she did find a mistake, lucky for me she did!
This is her hat made from the pattern 
Chickie chose a slouch look. 
This is Chickie's feed back.

I opted to add a few rows of FPHDC/BPHDC to enhance the slouch look. Just a note, the depth from crown to edge is a tad long for a non-slouch @ 84 sts ... at least it is for me. My head circ is 22". This hat measures 8" from top of crown to the beginning of the post stitch edge, then another inch for the post stitch edging.... that's why it's slightly slouchy. I don't mind that look so it's all good but just so you know. As for speed, once I figured out the pattern, it was a breeze and didn't take long at all, no more than just a plain hat really and the repeats are very easy to remember. After the first coloured stripe (once I figured it out lol) I didn't need to refer back to the pattern till I got to the straight edge... I would say it's quicker than it looks! Thank YOU x



 
Good luck with your project, I’d love to hear your feed back. Please do not sell this pattern, please link back to me if you use this pattern, I’d love to see this used for charity, and you can make and sell items from this pattern too.
 TO PRINT OUT THE PATTERN, COPY AND PASTE TO A WORD DOCUMENT ON YOUR COMPUTER.

Crochet Koala Applique

Crochet Koala Applique Pattern

It looks great on a hat (pattern for hat)

Koala Crochet Appliqué

Size of koala: 4 inches high, 5 inches wide
Hook: 3.5 mm Yarn: 8 ply, small amount of grey, white and black, sewing needle, scissors
Terms: US
Time: 2 to 3 hours
Skill level: Beginner +
Stitches used:
Magic ring
Sl st – slip stitch
Ch = chain
Sc = single crochet
Hdc = half double crochet
Dc = double crochet
Trbl = triple crochet (treble crochet)
Scfr = single crochet foundation row
Hdcfr = half double crochet foundation row
Bst = bullion stitch, 5 yo


 Construction:
2 body pieces, 2 ears, 2 eyes, 2 legs, 1 nose, rounds are joined.



Body: Make 2: 1 Grey and 1 White
Row 1, magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc into magic ring, (close magic ring), sl st to join round into beginning sc (6 sc’s)
Row2, ch 1, work 2 sc’s in each st around, sl st to join in beginning sc (12 sc’s)
Row 3, ch 1, work 2 sc’s in each st around, sl st to join in beginning sc (24 sc’s)
Row 4, ch 1,* work 1 sc into next 5 st’s, work 2 sc into next st,* repeat from *to* to end of round, sl st to join in beginning sc (28 sc’s), finish off leaving a long tail for weaving, hide beginning tail by sewing it in


Ears: Make 2, beginning with white in the first 2 rows, followed by the grey in the next 2 rows.
Row 1, magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc into magic ring, (close magic ring), sl st to join round into beginning sc (6 sc’s)
Row 2, ch 1,  work 1 sc into next 2 sc, work 2 sc into next sc, work 1 sc into next 2 sc, work 2 sc into next sc, sl st to join in beginning sc (8 sc), break off white and continue on with grey color
Row 3, ch 1, work 1 sc into next 3 sc, work 2 sc into next sc, work 1 sc into next 3 sc, work 2 sc into next sc, sl st to join in beginning sc (10 sc)

Left Ear: Row 4
Row 4, ch 1, sl st into same space as ch 1, sl st into next 2 st’s, work 2 sc’s into next 4 st’s, work 2 dc into next st, work 2 trbl into next st, work 2 dc into next st, sl st to join in beginning sl st, finish off leaving a long tail for weaving, hide beginning tail by sewing it in

Right Ear: Row 4
Row 4, ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work 2 trbl into next st, work 2 dc into next st, work 2 sc into next 4 st’s, work 1 sl st into next 3 st’s, sl st to join in the bottom of the starting ch 3 of the round, finish off leaving a long tail for weaving, hide beginning tail by sewing it in


Legs: make 2, grey color
Row 1, make a hdc foundation row of 10 hdc’s, finish off leaving a tail for weaving, hide beginning tail by sewing it in



Nose: make 1, black color
Row 1, working a sc foundation row, work 3 sc foundations, changing to a hdc foundation row, make 6 hdc foundations, , finish off leaving a tail for weaving, do not hide beginning tail, follow construction instructions

Eyes: make 2, black color
Row 1, magic ring, ch 3, work 1,(5 yo’s) bullion st, into ring, close ring, sl st to top of ch 3 and close work, forming the shape of a small eye, finish off leaving a tail for weaving, hide beginning tail by sewing it in


Construction:
Pull slightly on body and head pieces to form almost an oval shape, the sewing tail will be poking out to the left side or the right side of the body or head once manipulated correctly.
Sew grey head to white body by over lapping the head over the body slightly.
Place the legs with the long tail for sewing on the shoulder of the body, legs should be curved slightly and sticking over the bottom of the body slightly.

Nose construction: sew beginning tail to end tale position, hide in tail and finish that piece of yarn off, pull nose into shape, small arch at the top, larger arch at the bottom, sew center space of nose opening closed, do not make this too tight, position nose and sew on the nose

Position ears, the larger part of the ear should be on a down ward slope (see pictures)
Sew on eyes
Sew on a mouth; I visualize a sideways C that meets in the middle
Sew on some claws, I used 3 small sewing st’s on each

Once all of this was made I did a few grey sc’s in between the legs and left a very long tail to sew my appliqué on with.




First Video Tutorial Crochet Koala Applique







 Good luck with your project, I’d love to hear your feed back. Please do not sell this pattern, please link back to me if you use this pattern, I’d love to see this used for charity, and you can make and sell items from this pattern too. TO PRINT OUT THE PATTERN, COPY AND PASTE TO A WORD DOCUMENT ON YOUR COMPUTER

Flower Pop Flower Pattern

Flower Pop Pattern

I call this flower, the flower pop,
 as it really makes a plain hat pop!

I wrote the pattern this way for a bit of fun, let me know if you do not like it and I will write it differently
You can make this, with or without the beads
US terms used:
Materials:
3.5 mm hook
8 ply yarn, small amount
16 x 4 mm beads or beads that will thread onto your yarn of choice
A needle or piece of wire for threading beads

Firstly thread on your beads if you are using them




The beads will be facing the back of your work, so we need to turn and work from the other side where the beads are showing themselves
Make a sc where you placed your sl st to join this round
follow the instructions below until you have 8 loops, then slip st into the first sc of the round and make another sl st into the first loop of the round.




You are currently in the first loop with a sl st.
make a ch 1, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st into the loop, then chain 1 to get to the next loop and repeat the same steps.
once you have finished the 8 loops, ch 1 and sl st into the first sc of the round. 
 Finish off leaving a long tail for weaving onto your project

 This is what we have made and read






 Good luck with your project, I’d love to hear your feed back. Please do not sell this pattern, please link back to me if you use this pattern, I’d love to see this used for charity, and you can make and sell items from this pattern too. TO PRINT OUT THE PATTERN, COPY AND PASTE TO A WORD DOCUMENT ON YOUR COMPUTER.
 

Wednesday, May 22, 2013

Which Stitch Neck Warmer



 Which Stitch Neck Warmer


 What's with the name?
Which Stitch.
Well this stitch has more than one name.
The UP and DOWN st.
The GRIDDLE st.
The LEMON PEEL st.
 And maybe even more.

I prefer the Up and Down stitch as it makes sense to me.
Once the first pattern row is established which is
1 sc, 1 dc, repeat the last 2 stitches to the end.
The up and down bit becomes clear on the next and every alternative row.
1 sc worked into a dc stitch, 1 dc worked into a sc stitch, worded this way it's really the down and up stitch.

 The benefits of this st is that it works up very quickly and gives a closed piece of work (no holes) which is perfectly suited for a neck warmer.

 Well what about the button holes that are needed?
The button holes are worked into row 3, better to do it at the beginning of the neck warmer rather than the end.
It will take 2 rows to complete the button holes.
Placement can be up to you, but closer to the edges are better for when you wear it.
 Button hole row:
Work 1 sc, 1 dc, 1sc, 1dc, STOP and don't work the next 1 sc into the next dc stitch (that's the space for the button hole), do 1 chain instead and skip that dc, then work 1 dc straight into the next sc, do the same about 5st's in from the end.
When you work on the next row you will place a dc into the ch 1 space, button hole made! To make sure you do not miss making this stitch, talk your way through this row as it can be easily over looked.

Now doesn't the neck warmer look odd in the above picture?
But because it wraps around the neck and over laps this is how it looks finished.
Try seeing the left (button holes) winding to you and then back over the buttons.
The one below is not closed but moving the right direction.
How wide will you make it?
How many chains needed to begin?
This is a personal choice, if you make them a little wider than I would make mine, you may feel restricted, choked up by the neck warmer, not that they will be too tight, but a little claustrophobic even.
It depends on the individual.
I make mine 14 chains plus 1 chain.
I did make one for myself 16 chains plus 1 chain and I found that too high and annoying.
 I always make them up over an even number of st's.
The rows always begin with a sc and end with a dc.
Each and every row, now it's becoming clearer that this will be an easy and repetitive pattern to make once you pass the button hole rows.
This also makes for nice even edges.
Now lets talk about hook size and yarn thickness.
I live in Australia a warmer climate, but it still gets cold in winter, our most used yarn ply is 8 ply which is the same as US 4 ply.
The hook suitable for AU 8 ply is a 4 or 5mm hook, which is a US G/6, 8/H hook.
Using a thicker ply is fine, but don't forget to use the appropriate hook size for that ply.
I suggest you start out with no more than 14 chain plus 1 chain for the thicker yarn.
Tension not required!

How long will I make it?
You will need about 17.5 inches in length, but in saying that, measure as you go, your neck may be smaller or larger than mine, I'd be an average size neck.
                    
You can copy and paste the instructions onto a word document for ease of use.
Now it's time to write the pattern which begins at the button hole end and is worked in one long piece.

A quick explanation:
Why do I refer to 14 chains plus 1 chain?
The 14 chains are for the amount of st's that will be used, the 1 chain is for the first turning chain, a turning chain only not counted as a stitch in this pattern. 

 Pattern
Materials needed: Hook, yarn, sewing needle, 2 buttons, tape measure and some scissors.
US terms used:
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
Level = beginner to expert.
  
To begin, chain 15:

Row;1, Work 1 sc into second ch from hook, work 1 dc into next chain, *work 1 sc into next chain, work 1 dc into next chain*, repeat from * to*  to end, ch 1 and turn (14 st's)

Row;2, *work 1 dc into a sc, work 1 sc into a dc*, repeat from * to*  to end,  ch 1 and turn (14 st's)

Row;3, Button hole row, work 1 dc into the sc, work 1 sc into the dc, work 1 dc into the sc, STOP, we are about to make the button hole. Chain 1, do not work into the next stitch, just skip that stitch, now work 1 dc into the sc, work 1 sc into the dc, until you get to with in 5 stitches of the end of the row, work the dc into the sc, STOP, we are about to make the second button hole. Chain 1, do not work into the next stitch, just skip that stitch, now work 1 dc into the sc, (you should have only 2 st's left), now work the sc into the dc and the dc into the sc, make 1 chain for turning, then turn work (12 st's and 2 ch 1 spaces)

Row;4, Working across this row we must place a dc into the chain 1 place, it's easy to get lost here, so lets talk it through.In order we start, a single into a double, a double into a single, a single into a double, a double into that chain 1 space, a single into a double, a double into a single, a single into a double, until we get to that next chain 1 space, now go ahead and do a double into the chain 1 space, (2 st's left) a single into the double, a double into the single, make 1 chain for turning, then turn work (14 st's)

Row 5 makes up the rest of the pattern, just repeat this row until you have the desired length, approx 17.5 inches.
 
Row;5, *Work 1 dc into a sc, work 1 sc into a dc*, repeat  from *to* to end, 
ch 1 and turn

 At the end of your last row break off yarn long enough to sew in that end.


Sew in ends, check button size before attaching buttons, attach buttons.

Of course you can dress this style up with a few fancy st's or embellishments.

Here's a few more I made. Free Matching Hat Pattern Here

   

You may also like this neck warmer, free crochet cable neckwarmer
 
  Good luck with your project, I’d love to hear your feed back. Please do not sell this pattern, please link back to me if you use this pattern, I’d love to see this used for charity, and you can make and sell items from this pattern too. TO PRINT OUT THE PATTERN, COPY AND PASTE TO A WORD DOCUMENT ON YOUR COMPUTER.