Monday, August 18, 2008

Stash Buster

Referring back to my scrumbling/freeform crchet project, I've decided to turn it into a stash buster project as well. I have the scumbled piece hanging over the back of my rocker and because it was not a large piece, it was for ever creeping off the rocker and I was for ever putting it back. I've also had these small bit's of yarn left over from many things that I have made. Whilst watching an antique show a beautiful quilting piece was shown and it was made from left over pieces of the royal family's dresses that had been hand made. That is when the idea came to me. What better way to remember a lovely piece of yarn used, or a favourite item made. So I am adding the left over yarns to the original piece and I do this when I am brain dead and do not want to concentrate too much on any one thing. I am also using a variety of crochet stitches to keep it a free form project. I will also add those odd bit's that did not make the cut, flower's, beginning's of some thing's etc.

This the first piece
Now it has grown more and stay's put
Now that it has grown, I'm actually using it more, it keeps my legs warm when sitting on the rocker.



Thursday, August 14, 2008

Just a bit about my day

Today I went for a browse in the local op shop's, I was hoping to find some pillow case's and maybe a doona cover to cut up for rag crochet, the one's I did find were too stiff, so I came away without any (I do have some at home to use as yet), but I did find some little treasure's all for a $1 each, 3 balls of yarn , 2 packet's of sequence's, some nice cords and tassels, a belt and a grassed weaved edging, I am considering using this and the lovely belt for an edging around a rag bag.

My grandson Cooper loves to watch Toy Story, so I snapped up these slippers for him for $1, aren't they cute.
The post man came today also with my book's I ordered from Amazon about a week ago (quick), I still have another to come. They were both worth the buy, for under $20 a book.
I found these picture's on the internet, so you can have a preview of their content's.
Sensual Crochet Pattern Book


I love the one pictured below





This holiday pattern book is so cool, I can't wait for christmas!


Wednesday, August 13, 2008

Chunky Beret and Three Season's Beret Pattern


free crochet patterns for two berets
I like this style beret that I have been making, so I thought I would write up the pattern to share, it's one of many style's I've managed to come up with, but time does not prevail to write them all to share. Slowly does it and I may have more patterns to post.
I have written this beret pattern with 2 set's of instruction's.
One being for a thicker yarn, which is nice and warm for winter wear and the other is with a thinner yarn that can be worn for three season's.

Do not be afraid to adjust this pattern as AU Yarn is quite different yarn to the US and UK, AU can be much thinner which can require you to increase more.

Below is the three season's beret

 

The Chunky Winter Beret

Visual placement for the optional circular attachment


Chickie's Beret

Cat’s, Chunky Winter Beret

Directions given for Small, Medium and Large size beret
(Size is altered when making the band section)

Materials used.
AU: 12 ply yarn, 6.00mm hook. US: Worsted weight J/10 hook
Amount of yarn used 100 gm’s

Crochet terms written in US terms.

Special stitches used.
FPDC
Instructions: yo, insert hook behind post of stitch (from front to back), yo, pull through, bring up even with last stitch completed, yo, pull through 2 loops, (2 loops on hook), yo, pull through rem 2 lps to complete stitch

BPDC
Instructions: yo, insert hook behind post of stitch (from back to front), yo, pull through, bring up even with last stitch completed, yo, pull through 2 loops, (2 loops on hook), yo, pull through rem 2 lps to complete stitch

Decreasing with a BPDC
Using the instructions, work through 2 dc’s at once


Note 1:
The first ch 2 of every round is not counted as a stitch, to join rounds you will sl st into the ch 2 as if you were doing a front post st, *come from behind and into the gap between the chain 2 and the very first fpdc and make a sl st, then ch 2 to begin the next round*

Note 2:
You will be working the dc into the gaps between each fpdc and the dc, not into the eye of the dc

Begin
Ch 3, work 14 dc into the 3rd ch from hook, sl st into the beginning ch 2 to join (see note 1.) (14 dc and 1 ch 2)
Row 1. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 2 dc in the gap between the 2nd dc just worked and the next dc un worked,* repeat to end finishing off with 1 dc in the gap between the last dc worked and the ch 2 joining st, sl st to join (see note 1.)
(14 fpdc and 14dc)

Row 2. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 3 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 21 dc)

Row 3. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 4 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 28 dc)

Row 4. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 5 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 35 dc)

Row 5. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 6 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 42 dc)

Row 6. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 7 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 49 dc)

Row 7. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 8 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 56 dc)

Row 8. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 9 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 63 dc)

Stop increasing

Row 9. repeat row 8, leaving the last gap un worked (14 fpdc and 63 dc)

Start decreasing
(Decreasing is accomplished by skipping the first and last gaps between the fpdc’s)

Row 10. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, skip first gap, work 1 dc in the next 8 gaps, skip last gap*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 56 dc)

Row 11. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, skip first gap, work 1 dc in the next 7 gaps, skip last gap*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 49 dc)

Row 12. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, skip first gap, work 1 dc in the next 6 gaps, skip last gap*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 42 dc)

Row 13. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, skip first gap, work 1 dc in the next 5 gaps, skip last gap*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 35 dc)

Band

Row 14. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, bpdc next 2 dc together 2 times, bpdc next dc*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 35 bpdc)
(for a larger hat stop decreasing here and work one row of 2 fpdc and 3 bpdc, fin off)

Row 15. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, bpdc next 2 dc together, bpdc next st* repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 2 bpdc)

Row 16. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 bpdc in the next 2 st’s* repeat to end, sl st to join
(for an even smaller hat repeat row 16, fin off)






Cat’s, Three Season’s Beret

Directions given for Small, Medium and Large size beret
(size is altered when making the band section)

Materials used.
AU: 8 ply yarn, 5.00mm hook. US: Light Worsted H/8 hook
Amount of yarn used 50 gm’s

Crochet terms written in US terms.

Special stitches used.
FPDC
Instructions: yo, insert hook behind post of stitch (from front to back), yo, pull through, bring up even with last stitch completed, yo, pull through 2 loops, (2 loops on hook), yo, pull through rem 2 lps to complete stitch

BPDC
Instructions: yo, insert hook behind post of stitch (from back to front), yo, pull through, bring up even with last stitch completed, yo, pull through 2 loops, (2 loops on hook), yo, pull through rem 2 lps to complete stitch

Decreasing with a BPDC
Using the instructions, work through 2 dc’s at once


Note 1:
The first ch 2 of every round is not counted as a stitch, to join rounds you will sl st into the ch 2 as if you were doing a front post st, *come from behind and into the gap between the chain 2 and the very first fpdc and make a sl st, then ch 2 to begin the next round*

Note 2:
You will be working the dc into the gaps between each fpdc and the dc, not into the eye of the dc

Begin
Ch 3
, work 14 dc into the 3rd ch from hook, sl st into the beginning ch 2 to join (see note 1.) (14 dc and 1 ch 2)
Row 1 Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 2 dc in the gap between the 2nd dc just worked and the next dc un worked,* repeat to end finishing off with 1 dc in the gap between the last dc worked and the ch 2 joining st, sl st to join (see note 1.)
(14 fpdc and 14dc)

Row 2. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 3 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 21 dc)

Row 3. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 4 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 28 dc)

Row 4. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 5 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 35 dc)

Row 5. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 6 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 42 dc)

Row 6. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 7 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 49 dc)

Row 7. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 8 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 56 dc)

Row 8. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 9 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 63 dc)

Row 9. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 10 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 70 dc)

Row 10. repeat row 9, leaving the last gap un worked (14 fpdc and 70 dc)

Start decreasing
(Decreasing is accomplished by skipping the first and last gaps between the fpdc’s)

Row 11. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, skip first gap, work 1 dc in the next 9 gaps, skip last gap*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 63 dc)

Row 12. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, skip first gap, work 1 dc in the next 8 gaps, skip last gap*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 56 dc)

Row 13. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, skip first gap, work 1 dc in the next 7 gaps, skip last gap*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 49 dc)


Band

Row 14. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, bpdc next 2 dc together, bpdc next 3dc bpdc next 2 dc together*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 35 bpdc)
(For larger size stop decreasing here and work 2 more rows of *2 fpdc, and 5 bpdc* around, fin)

Row 15. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, bpdc next 2 st’s together, bpdc next 1dc bpdc next 2 st’s together*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 21 bpdc)

Row 16. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 bpdc in the next 3 st’s*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 21 bpdc)
Row 17. repeat row 16 and finish off

For a smaller hat work one more row as above

Instructions for small circular attachment for the top of the beret (optional)

Ch 2,
Row 1. work 6 sc into the second ch from the hook, do not join (6 sc)
Row 2. work 2 sc in each sc around, do not join (12 sc)
Row 3. *work 1 sc into the next sc, work 2 sc in the next sc* repeat to end, do not join (18 sc)
Decrease
Row 4. *work 1 sc in the next sc, sc the next 2 sc’s together* repeat to end, do not join (12 sc)
Row 5. *sc the next 2 sc’s together* repeat to end and join leaving a long tail for sewing. (6 sc)

Flatten the circle and sew to top of the beret.


Here is some feed back on the three seasons beret.
Thanks Chickie Magoo.

I absolutely love it and for me, 13 sts for the last inc was perfect, that made a couple extra rows for the decrease too and it all worked out great. I love how it fits and how it sits on my head...it's fairly heavy because I used Cleckheaton Country 8ply pure wool but it feels yummy and springy and I'm well pleased. Thanks for a great pattern!

This is Chickie's Beret.

I must say she does lovely crochet, thanks for letting me use your picture's Chickie


© Cathy Wood 2008

Tuesday, August 12, 2008

My Sister-in-Laws Visit

My sister in law Robyn called in to see us on Sunday with her husband (and our brother in law) Mal.
"I've got some wool for you" she said.

The yarn on the left is for her friend, she wants a beret and scarflette, the other is cotton, which Robyn wants a scarflette to match her new dark pink leather jacket. The rest is mine to do what ever I like with. I don't know if you can see the price on the cotton, but it was $1.00!
Below is some more yarn she bought, "they were on special" she said. Lovely balls of moda vera for .50c! I paid $3.00 a ball, then $2.40, then $2.00 as the clearance sales were more of a bargain. Robyn always finds the best deals on Yarn!
There is also some scap yarn from her friend, well it's not all scrap, some were full balls, below is a picture of yarn with sparkles and a foil look to them.
So now my stash gets that bit fatter, below is some of my stash, which looks tidier than this as I keep lids on them.
Stash 1 Stash 2. Plastic storage and a set of bedroom drawers with 6 drawers.
Stash 3. Tucked away in a corner.
Stash 4. The crockery got the flick from the wall unit for more yarn

And under the stairs a little nook, for bits and pieces, such as button's, eye's, glue and more.


Now don't forget that all of the above is tucked away neatly in my little area under the stairs adjacent to the dining room and kitchen.